Being a "gearhead",
I always work on my own car, as I think it’s fun. Here’s
what I’ve done so far:
Modifications
and improvements.
BODY
& TRIM
In March 2001,
I happened upon a low mile M5 interior, so I bought it and installed
it. Boy, does it feel sexy now!
Installed euro
spec headlight assemblies and grills. While I was at it, I opted for
some new Hella lamps… candlepower! I think the look of the 7"
outer lamps is killer too. I would hate to get brighted by me;-) Most
of the parts came from the infamous "TC in Germany" (now
“TC in Texas".... umm, now "TC in Germany" again...
umm, now he's "WARDOG") who frequents the Mye28.com
message boards.
December 2002:
I have started my Euro bumper installation! So far I have the rear
bumper mounted and am currently awaiting a European lower valence
to complete the front end transformation, I have all other parts needed.
I sourced the bumpers from ebay, the new mounting hardware and trim
from Maximillian
Importing, and Euro turn signals & French fog lights from
Paul LaDue (Thanks Paul).
I opted to have
my bumpers de-chromed and then powder coated Schwarz to match the
body paint. Body matching bumper paint was one of the original factory
Euro options and since the USA E28 M5 came with the shadow-line trim
option anyway, I thought this the best course in keeping with the
“original” look.
January 2003:
Finished Euro bumper install. Looks stunning! Special thanks to "JBort"
for some excellent reference material.
As soon as $
permits, I plan on giving the car a fresh coat of 0086 schwarz paint.
BRAKES
Earl‘s
stainless steel brake lines.
Autoquip carbon
fiber brake pads.
Brembo rotors.
When these warp I'll install E32 rotors (50k miles and counting!).
New "brake
bomb" (Jan. '02).
E34 540i rear
brakes.
E32 7 Series
28mm master cylinder.
CLUTCH
& FLYWHEEL
Replaced clutch
and flywheel with a performance clutch and lightened flywheel from
Metric Mechanic. Big
Improvement!
When I replaced
the clutch, flywheel and transmission, I also lapped the clutch disk
to the input shaft on the transmission. This made for smooth as butter
clutch operation.
ENGINE
REFRESH
Note:
I dropped in a “refreshed” 103K mile engine @ 182K on
the clock.
To “refresh”
the engine, I disassembled the host engine, checked all tolerances
to make sure it was within specification, and then replaced/performed
the following:
- Clean block
thoroughly (hot tank).
- Checked deck
for flatness (Perfect!).
- Hone cylinders
(lightly)- no boring required- replaced rings and set ring gap.
- Checked crankshaft
end play (within tolerance).
- Replace main
bearings to keep oil pressure nice and high.
- Checked valve
stem run-out (within tolerance).
- Cleaned up
head, de-carboned valves & domes, lapped valves, replaced seals
with “Viton” type seals. The factory three-angle grind
was readily apparent and still sharp. This process took about 12 hours!
(24 valves)
- Replaced all
timing components (crank gear, oil pump gear, oil pump chain, oil
pump, cam chain, chain tensioner, guide rails).
- Replaced original
crank hub with an updated version from Frank
Fahey.
- Replaced water
pump (Twice! I was at first sold a regular M30 water pump and told
it was correct by a very respectable speed shop, only later to find
out the S38 had a special pump… live and learn)
- Cleaned fuel
injectors (Cruzin Performance).
- Replaced all
gaskets & seals.
- Replaced all
remaining rubber in engine compartment that I had not yet replaced.
OTHER
ENGINE RELATED STUFF
R-134a A/C conversion,
to keep cool in the summer.
Dinan chip.
Evo II exhaust
cam gear (5º retard).
Had drive shaft
rebuilt with serviceable U-Joints. I have since toasted three U-joints
and two Guibo's!
Installed E36
M3 gear shift lever and all new bushings. The M3 lever is a short
shift mod for the E28 M5. This made shifting a little notchy, but
quicker... oh 'well.
Replaced transmission
at time of engine rebuild, as the old Getrag 280 had a worn-out input
shaft bearing, as well as some failing synchro’s.
SUSPENSION
Dinan
stage 4 equivalent suspension with SLS removed. The original kit included
Dinan springs, Dinan anti sway bars, Dinan fixed negative camber plates,
OEM strut tops, and the SLS elimination kit. Since installing this
kit I have replaced the Dinan anti sway bars.
Bilstein "Sport"
struts and shocks.
Suspension Techniques
25/19mm adjustable anti sway bars.
All new anti
sway bar links.
Polyurethane
anti sway bar bushings.
Racing Dynamics
front stress bar.
Fully adjustable
rear sub frame. This is a sub frame which I modified: I slotted the
trailing arm mounting tabs and built eccentric bolts and washers for
camber and toe adjustment.
New OEM sub frame
mounts. Note: These have since been replaced with "solid"
polyurethane bushings, but I plan to return to the OEM style, as these
poly bush's transfer too much noise into the cabin. (Replaced
poly mounts with OEM mounts 5/'04)
Paul
Gray polyurethane control arm bushings.
E34 aluminum
lower control arms.
E34 M5 "Throwing
Star" wheels with 235/45/17 tires.
Specs:
Front camber:
-1.5º
Front toe-in:
1/16"
Rear camber:
-2.5º
Rear toe-in:
1/8"
MAINTENANCE
& TUNE UP
See the Ongoing
list of Parts Replaced
for a comprehensive list.
Valve adjustments
are a bit tricky, as you must shim each valve (there are 24), though
it is rare that all 24 would require adjustment. Requires special
tools (I like tools).
Plug wires are
expensive!
Buy parts from
Steve Haygood!
I replaced every
rubber piece I could see in the engine compartment (and a few I could
not see). Fuel lines, coolant lines, intake bellows, and re-built
heater control valve.
I also replaced
every rubber part of the suspension with either OEM or polyurethane
parts.
If the suspension
is feeling sloppy, replace all of the rubber parts before spending
even more money on springs, shocks, anti sway bars, and strut braces!
You'd be amazed what new bushings will do.
Top
Of Page
